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The main skills for surfer
Basics of surfing
You've decided to learn how to surf? Read our tips about basic surfing skills and get ready for your first surfing session.
Checking the spot
Check the spot and warm up before surfing
Before entering the water, every surfer observes the spot: where and how often waves break, where is the lineup, the peak and the channel for getting back to the lineup after riding a wave. How strong is a shore break and where is better to go into the water.
Be aware of shore break and rip currents.
Paddling to the lineup
Paddling to the lineup
While paddling to the lineup keep in your mind the mental map of the spot. You should know how to avoid crashing waves that could knock you off your board. It takes time to get the techniques of eskimo roll and duck dive.
The small waves you saw from the beach seem huge from the water.
As you are paddling out be very mindful of the other surfers. If somebody catches a wave, he has a priority. That means you should not disturb the rider.
At the lineup
waiting for a wave in lineup
When the breaking waves are over, the water becomes still and you have the opportunity to take a rest. The lineup area is a waiting zone, where you and other surfers seat on the boards and watch the waves come in. Now you need to find the right position for take-off. Watch a few sets roll in and note where the curl of the wave begins.
Catching a wave
Catching a wave
The most important thing when you catch a wave is timing. The experienced surfers are able to predict how big an oncoming wave is and where it will begin to break. When you see a wave rolling in, you should face the nose of your board toward shore and lie down, ready to paddle.
The person closest to the pick of the wave gets the priority.
It's easier to catch a wave on a long board, because it gets maximum stability and speed.
Standing up and riding a wave
Standing on the board
Practice on the beach how to stand up properly to get ready for that movement in the water. Your knees should be bent, your body balanced, and your eyes looking at the big picture – not at your board. Your first waves will be already broken whitewash waves, and the next step is to learn how to stand up and ride a green unbroken waves.
Turning the board
Managing the board
So you're balanced and comfy on your board, riding down a wave's face. It's time to work on turning and maneuvering your board. Apply pressure to the back of the board as you lean slightly with the carve. Your hips, head and torso should remain fairly upright, while you use your lower body to steer the board.
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